1) Why 10 10 CFS must not be diluted

When applying C-Systems 10 10 CFS resin some times it is advisable (always avoid following bad advice...... also those of the quayside radio) to ”dilute” 10 10 CFS with some solvent or with alcohol. It is worse than diluting champagne with water!!!
The resin diluted in this way loses its mechanical characteristics, a part of the solvent will remain in the thickness of the film or underneath it and whilst everything is going to look perfectly all right, with the first warm days or under the sunshine in summer we will be able to verify the ”softness” and the softening of the work made. As a matter of fact with higher temperatures the volume of the solvents inside increases and the resin, which lost its primary characteristics being polluted and spoilt, is not able to express its mechanical characteristics. What should we then do to deeply impregnate the wood we want to protect? When the wood has the right moisture content, equal or inferior to 12% to 15% as foreseen by various Naval Registers warm up the wood surface lightly (if in winter with a hair dryer with medium hot air) as by doing this the air expands, its volume increases and it escapes through the wood pores). Then with C-Systems' 10 10 CFS (even with that at temperature of about 18° to 20 °C) abundantly brush onto the surface and afterwards, with the same hair-dryer, this time though with cold air, make several sweeps across the applied resin. This operation again fluidises the C-Systems' 10 10 CFS without shortening its pot-life (the duration of the mixture, it is like enjoying an ice cream driving a scooter at 25 mph), the wood with less air because this was previously warmed up and expanded, will be able to ”absorb” a higher resin quantity. This treatment is particularly important mainly in corners and in all those parts where wood shows the end grain. After being absorbed by the wood and when the resin is still fresh it is advisable to repeat the operation until the surface is perfectly impregnated and saturated ready for the next treatment, being sure that it was a job well done and that it will always give us the highest satisfaction and reliability.

2) Moisture damages wood

Wood is a natural material, formed by a multitude of thread-like cells with thin walls that have the job of transporting sap during the growth and life cycle. The multitude of channels which once transported the sap now form a modern bundle of ”tubes” with a really outstanding compression resistance.
During seasoning wood looses moisture (weight) until it reaches the requirements demanded by the Naval Registers (LLOYD’S, R.I.N.A., BUREAUS VERITAS, etc.) who established that the moisture content should be equal or inferior to 12% to 15%. When it reaches these values it has the highest fatigue resistance and dimension stability (it does not move, split or swell up). When the wood volume increases it means that it absorbed moisture again, when the wood volume decreases it lost moisture. When this wood is used to construct the boat and it undergoes these movements it is obvious that this causes damage to the boat showing movements and splitting as well as a resistance and durability loss.
For your reference, dry wood (12%) with an X kg resistance, when it has 45% moisture content loses about 50% of its characteristics.
In order to maintain wood in its best seasoned conditions it is important (indispensable) to carry out a protection treatment. Before the “cosmetic” effect of the different varnishing products the best protection is given by applying an epoxy resin like C-Systems' 10 10 CFS used like a glue instead of screws and nails (therefore the wood will not be holed or these would cause paths for infiltration), and used like an undercoat as well as a protection instead of old materials like red and white lead paint. Wood, like all materials, has some inconveniences, but nowadays it can be repaired with easy, secure and reliable treatments.
Someone can argue that the boats built long ago used exactly those materials.... certainly..... but also the undersigned, who was born a long time ago was also swaddled like a mummy as was usual then (I prefer not saying like a salami even if many people think so). Nowadays, babies are born just like in the past but this obsolete and old-fashioned swaddling technique is not used any more. Who ever is able to hear .......should understand!

3) How much water does wood contain?

The hulls of wooden sailing or motorboats are bound to absorb water.
An increase in the hull moisture content above the maximum limits set by the Naval Registers (12% to 15%) causes in a few words the following problems: less fatigue resistance, paint keying problems, less adherence of the applied paints, possibility of rot and exposure to attack by micro-organisms, etc.
The quantity of water absorbed doesn't determine a decrease in the boat speed, in this case why do we say that a ”soaked” hull is much slower? Further, this consideration is supported by the fact that after the hull has been some time in the water a motorboat can increase its speed by some knots and a sailing boat has more sprint.
Independently from the antifouling quality the first small quantity absorbed by the wood swells up its surface slightly making it not as smooth as it once was when it was put into water, but slightly ”rubbery and deformed” so that the laminar flow goes from ”orderly” to ”turbulent”, breaking it down and creating micro-vortices which take something away from our boat in terms of speed. If we wish to consider the water content in a solid wooden hull, let’s say with about 40 square metres underwater (a 10 to 11 metre sailing or motor boat) with 18 mm bottom thickness, first of all we have to calculate the wood volume used which corresponds to 40 square metres multiplied by a 0.18 mm bottom thickness for a total of 0.72 cubic metres. According to the parameters foreseen by the Registers the maximum physiological number of litres of water in the wood volume of our boat go from 79.2 to 85 which can be considered as kilos without any problems and with an approximation of 0.0.... When instead our hull shows a relative moisture content much higher than the maximum 15% allowed and it will be 100% (6 times more) the total water quantity will not exceed 144 litres or kilos, therefore with a difference varying from 64.8 to 59 litres or kilos. Is it therefore possible that our boat is going to loose in speed performance only because of this weight increase?
As a comparison we can take for example, with a certain approximation, driving at sustained speed on a road that has in the first part a smooth surface and in the second part we can imagine it is with paving flags. The latter, even if it is perfectly aligned and well laid, will never allow us to exploit all the speed even with the engine working at full power. As a matter of fact the external wood surface “swells up” immediately because of the higher moisture absorbed and takes away, if only by a few microns, the surface linearity made by the boatbuilder.

4) The convenience of 10 10 CFS

Epoxy resin is used as a base in several varnish products. When it is pure and without solvents, it has among its main characteristics those of being an outstanding structural adhesive and not releasing any solvents into the air. In the formulation of epoxy resin, like C-Systems' 10 10 CFS, it was possible to achieve further characteristics like ease of brushing, possibility to mix with additives in order to obtain fillers of various densities, weight and ease of application. When calculating costs the price of the epoxy resin, in this case C-Systems' 10 10 CFS, has to be divided, when it is used as a coating, undercoat or protection coat, by the number of square metres and by the thickness obtained.
For varnishes we use the same calculation but we have to pay attention whether the film has just being applied (it is wet or dry) because the average of varnishing products have a dry film yield from about 40% to 60% of the wet film, that is to say that the solvent part, the one which evaporates (and does pollute) doesn't create thickness or protection and therefore does not defend the material with which we are working. So if we want to achieve 100 micron thickness with C-Systems' 10 10 CFS probably we will have to apply, maybe sanding between the single coats, at least 3 to 4 coats! This is to explain why even if we seem to spend more using C-Systems' 10 10 CFS, when we make comparison with thickness and practical yield on top of the higher resistance we also obtain a noticeable economical convenience.

5) Problems related to low temperatures

Crazing and alligatoring on the gel coat can be eliminated by applying Decolay. Most times Decolay is applied on your own (do it yourself).
Most of the work can be carried out in spring just before going out with the boat, and a smaller percentage in autumn. Decolay is a water-based paint, so in order to dry perfectly it needs better weather conditions than the ones that can be tolerated for solvent varnishes. This is due to the higher water surface tension (and also to its specific weight) in comparison to solvents.
An often recurring inconvenience is that during the night, as opposed to the good daytime temperature, the thermometer drops a lot blocking Decolay and even when the good temperature is back again, the damage caused by the low temperature tends to reduce its qualities. This happens with all varnishes as well as with epoxy resins, but it is much more acute with water based paints because their evaporation is much slower and the water tends to freeze. Therefore, when you want to start working try to establish, like you do before a cruise, a period of good weather, frost free, and in case of doubt wait a few weeks longer in springtime before carrying out this important work. The damage caused by low temperature results in a lower resistance with pigment powdering during intense washes and/or during usage. In order to avoid this it is enough to just apply another coat of Decolay P.U. Primer followed by two thin coats (for a good drying) of Decolay paint. Another advice is to apply thin coats for easier evaporation.

6) The importance of sanding

It is very important for wood to be perfectly prepared ”well primed” as experts say because no clear varnish or enamel will ever be able to cover poor workmanship. The varnish thickness will be a maximum of 200 or 300 microns (less than 1/3 mm) and will not cover defects or bad alignment of the previous work. The same can be said about enamel paint. If the metal parts were done badly the expert eye will always notice "approximated" work even with a good layer of filler.
As we have to sand let’s do it with ”love”, so our boat will be happier, we will need less time and associate ourselves more with our work and be proud of compliments received.
Meanwhile it is important to use sanding paper, either wet or dry, with the recommended grain, and it you want to change the rule then even better with a slightly finer grain.
Do not press too hard and do not ”injure” corners because their varnish is even thinner. In case of clear varnishes the surfaces in question are seldom large and so remember that sanding by hand is more profitable than with the machine. Always do it in the direction of the grain, and only with a paper above 500 grain can you work across grain without scratching it. In several cases, mainly for the last coat, some use lightly abrasive sponges. They are very good but in case of motes attached the sponges will always work around it; you are better off using 500 grain and helping yourself with your free hand to feel the imperfections. Change your sanding paper often because you will save time, money and will do your work better.

7) Drying temperature

When we refer to catalysation and drying times of a product, even if not expressly indicated, is meant to be at a temperature of 18º to 20° C and an air humidity of about 70%.
It is a good habit to consider that a temperature increase of 10° means reducing the drying (and use) time by half, whilst a temperature decrease by 10° means doubling the usage and drying times. When we report that some products are not to be put into water (this is valid for all varnishes) within 7 days it is always to be taken into consideration that this time period is valid if temperatures have been on average 20° between day and night.

8) The double with the triple and the same weight

The bending resistance of a panel depends on the thickness of the same panel. A triple thickness corresponds to twice the resistance. For this reason in production many boatyards adopt a sandwich construction. This construction type is indispensable for sailing or motor regatta boats. Saving weight with the same resistance means needing less sail. A smaller sail means less weight and a mast with reduced dimensions.... therefore lighter. Therefore the keel will also be lighter and so on without jeopardizing the steadiness, which means security.
In motorboats being light means needing less power, therefore less consumption and tanks with more independence.
On an equal with resistance lightness is a quality factor.

9) Re-varnishing on something beautiful is easier

Clear varnishes like SPINNAKER and NAUTILUS give the highest protection and the maximum ease of application, but we have to consider that the stress suffered by the wood under the sun is much higher than that suffered by the same wood painted with light coloured enamel paint. In order to maintain the wood in its best condition when there are any dents, abrasions etc. or any decay of the varnish film it is important to intervene in a short time to repair it, and if necessary, to give a new total protection. In fact if on one hand clear varnish can be considered to be more delicate on the other hand it is easy to carry out its seasonal maintenance. Our SPINNAKER GOLD FASHION for example does not need sanding between one coat and the next with a real time saving of up to 70%. The moral: seasonal maintenance is advisable, if varnish and wood look good, in comparison to delayed work which could cause damage to the wood and the necessity to remake the work also starting from scratch. A further possibility is to apply another one or two coats of SPINNAKER WOOD PROTECTION onto the damaged parts or on deteriorated wood. By doing this we immediately stop any further wood decay.

10) Always close to your boat

If you encounter any problems in finding our product range we can offer home delivery (always ex-works) also for single items. A telephone call is enough, a fax or e-mail is better in order to avoid any mistake. Even if the goods are delivered on account of the purchaser (as foreseen by the Law), we commit, in case of partial or total breakage, to reinstate the material. In order to do this upon delivery it is though necessary to verify the integrity of the material also by opening the boxes in front of the courier (it is your right as he could have violently dropped them only a few seconds before and the boxes might appear perfect for another half an hour) and in negative cases it is necessary to make a written reserve on the courier receipt. Faxing the copy of the reserve made to the courier we will be able, sometimes even on the same day, to forward again the material taking over the insurance issue and everything connected to this. It is important that somebody is available during office hours to receive the goods at the indicated delivery address, the courier comes once, afterwards the storage time will have to be paid and you will have to collect the goods personally. If there is this risk you’d better opt for hold-on-deposit and we will inform you about the dispatch so that you will be able to collect what you ordered for your boat without any uncertainty.
We work with the following courier services:
for small deliveries (one or two packs) TNT Global Express – TRACO
for larger deliveries ARCO Spedizioni.

11) It’s just as well I still have the boat!

If we value how long we sail and how much time we spend to ordinary and extraordinary upkeep, we can consider us “crazy”. And that’s not all. There are also the apprehension for bad weather and the boat in port, bureaucratic problems that we have to endure and etc…
And yet there is someone who at the first time was happy for the sale of the boat and then he walked on the quay remembering his boat. For this reason it’s better working but we have to do them in the best way. It’s important to know the opportunity we have at disposal. It’s simple to see a defects on the deckhouse or on the cabin and make immediately retouches, but we control the hull once a year and in a hurry. It’s necessary to make the hull reliable like the other parts of the boat. When we have problems like water infiltrations, rot, repair of the deck, caulking, paint, bubbles caused by osmosis and polishing of the gel-coat, the quality of the products and the technique of application are of the greatest importance. Every day we work so that you can work less and sail more. That’s ready. We have moved the keel-blocks too to complete the anti-fouling and the bridge crane is going to sling her. The boat so clumsy at beach, in water, her natural element, will move like a dancer. Telephone us for your boat. Our experiences are at disposal to be compared with your need. If you have difficulty to find our products we offer you the home delivery with the possibility to have access to an important line also for single prices. If you pass near our company, stop!. You’ll be welcome, we’ll speak of boats, of sea, of work…drinking a coffee-cup, an ice-cream or a dish of fish.

12) Before starting

Before going on, everyday household articles carry risk and danger symbols asking for care to be taken during use.
Our packing indicates the risks of the material contained such as; corrosive, noxious, irritant, toxic, inflammable, etc.
Some people develop allergies to certain substances. An allergy is an altered and spontaneous reaction by the organism to certain substances. If you have this reaction it is almost certain that also in the future a minor contact or inhalation will cause the problem.
It is indispensable to resort to medical care to control this troublesome annoyance. Besides the risks, also the work environment is to be considered which, if enclosed, must be well ventilated.
It is always highly recommended to protect yourself with a suitable breathing mask in order to avoid breathing in the solvent fumes and the powder. Put on comfortable and suitable clothes for the work, protect your hands with disposable gloves and if necessary solvent proof gloves.
In case of contact with the eyes or the hands wash abundantly with running water and if necessary refer to the medical services showing them the pack label. Avoid smoking and eating in the workplace and while using the product.
Always wash hands before using the toilet. It is also important to use well protected electrical tools, without damaged cables. For a good work outcome, in the winter period, pay much attention to the temperature of the product being used (avoiding the thermal inertia or heat lag accumulated over night) and to the temperature of the base itself (the part we wish to protect or paint).
To avoid these inconveniences, most times a hair dryer is sufficient, or a fan heater or an oil-filled radiator, with which you can mildly and uniformly warm the product (removing the cap to let out the pressure).
You must also warm up the surface to be treated in order to eliminate the cold and any humidity built up over night.
Maintain good drying conditions by using rapid sweeps of hot air.
To this end our quartz lamps sort out a hundred and one problems.
Pay attention to thinners, because incorrect or unsuitable quantities can cause work problems. Always ensure that the surfaces are clean, free of grease, wax and paraffin.
When using epoxy resins, if you are unsure of how much time has passed since application or if there is the typical oily surface (blushing) it is always recommended to give an in between sanding after sponging the surface or wet sand.
It is important that the right product is used in the right place. Our packs carry application recommendations for every article and its use, but in case of doubt, a telephone call to the wholesaler or to our offices, can save time and money. We are at your boat's service.

13) Wood "a vista"

In percentage terms there are few boats with visible wood but when we came across them they always get admired. Once in a boatyard, which is still making these wonderful projects, we admired the laying of the third planking, the longitudinal one applied over the first two crossed plankings. With expertise the boatbuilder together with his team installed the last planking layer, the external one, without having to bore the boards to insert screws. Not having any screw also meant not having to insert any wood plugs to cover the head holes, therefore the plankings aesthetic aspect was receiving an even higher aesthetical and functional value. The easiness of the work and the opening of the boatyard were amazing, as they wanted to tell and illustrate this detail, which was not clear to many people working in the field. A remarkable quantity of clamps (or as some call them “sergeants”) in the end was cut down leaving only the clamp and half stem, upon which a plate with two holes was bonded where it was cut.
The plate, integral with the clamp, was fixed with 2 screws on the planking underneath and the longitudinal board ”presented” by eye and fixed in position with clamps for the time necessary for the epoxy to work perfectly. The plate and clamp are removed and the screw holes are filled in with a wooden dowel and some epoxy resin and so you go on with the next board for the entire side. The expertise of the carpenters, the love for things often results in happy days of work. This time we have to thank the Carlini Boatyard in Rimini, just as other times we had to thank many of their colleagues.

14) Point of dew, thermic K and… microclimate

When we take an apple out of the refrigerator because of the temperature jump, the apple surface ”becomes damp” after a few minutes. If we touch it with a finger we could verify that the water content is consistent. This ”phenomena” is called DEW POINT. This physical reaction occurs naturally in a boat placed outside in certain periods of the year when it ”accumulates” cold during the night and then sunshine and warmer temperatures (achieved quickly) cause a similar result. Even if paints or resins appear to be applied properly, in the more or less near future will show big defects or even peeling of the treatment work. Materials like iron, cast iron, lead, steel, aluminium and GRP show their dew points more clearly than solid or ply woods. This depends on the thermal key of these materials. The thermal key is a characteristic of all materials (the above mentioned mainly interest us because they are part of our boat) to accumulate or yield heat inertia (hot or cold).
The relative air humidity (R.H.) is a further variable contributing to enhance or diminish the dew point phenomena. In many cases, as it is impossible to work systematically with low temperatures, the boatyards became equipped to create conditioned work environments (microclimates) as close as possible to the requirements made by producers of paints, resins, etc. The relative air humidity, the air temperature, the surface temperature, the product moisture content check (wood or fibreglass) can be measured with SKINDER.
In order to establish the dew point a simple test can be made by dampening with a cloth a limited surface. If this evaporates within 15 minutes we can be sure that we can start working.
The higher the air humidity level is the easier it is to obtain the dew point. Not taking these conditions into consideration means having to make the work again.

15) During the application of tissues the corners

N.B. During the application of tissues the corners, where it's going to be applied, must be joined with borders, made for example with Microfiller Powder, so that the tissue have there its weak point. The same is for the edges; they must be trimmed off otherwise it'll not adhere well and will make bubbles. In a cubic millimetre the Microfiller Powder (with the resin C-systems 10 10 cfs) makes from 5.000 to 15.000 cells which don't communicate each other but which perfectly isolate from water and moisture.

16) When the rubber dinghy shows signs of weariness...

When your inflatable boat shows some signs of tiredness and joint coverings, the handle as well as the canvas joint tend to give, there is the following fast, effective and reliable remedy, consisting as follows: clean by lifting the parts which are lightly detaching until the good part is found. Sand finely with 100 to 120 sanding paper and thoroughly remove the dust. Mask with adhesive tape the parts to be treated.
Apply on the parts in question a light brushing of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS and after some minutes dry with a cloth or piece of paper.
Afterwards apply Nautilus Polyurethane Sealant (or similar product) on these parts making a thin and levelled layer (if possible make it with a thin toothed spatula).
Join the parts putting them under a light pressure so that the applied product overflows in an even way and leave it like this for at least one or two days (depending on temperature). After joining the parts, if you spray it with water you can speed up the drying time.
Good sailing!

17)The paint in the bilge was ... grey

When all paints were synthetic oils and brushes were kept in tins of water, mixing together the remains of the most different colours you used to obtain the famous bilge grey, that is to say like a fruit salad made with all the properly cleaned up fruit stalks and cores left over on the plates, or the hamburger during compulsory military service.
Nothing against the colour grey. Unfortunately it not a visible colour and when we have to work in the bilge and are looking for something important we are always in unfavourable working conditions and with little light. Nautilus Epoxy HB is available in white and yellow and is also approved to paint the inside of water tanks, it contains no solvents, is odourless and in case of fire it is flame retardant and does not give off toxic fumes. The highest brightness is given by the colour yellow (it is said to be the crazy peoples' colour), which was adopted by several engine manufacturers to show up tightness problems of washers, pumps and circuits. White is as good and completes the colours range, but it there is not enough courage to use such innovative colours.... light grey is also available (you just need to add a spot of A 20). To apply on wood, degrease, dry and clean the bilges properly. Apply one or two coats of Nautilus Epoxy HB.
In case of fibreglass, degrease and abrade the bilge using the coarse side of a 3M sponge.
Dry and apply one or two Nautilus Epoxy HB coats. In the case of metals prime the ground with Nautilus Epoxy Primer two followed by two coats of Nautilus Epoxy HB. It is also very suitable for dents and scratches on the gel-coat.

18) The rudder in profile compensates for the propeller's rotation pull

Sailing boats (almost all) are equipped with performance rudders because they exploit the wind and are generally livelier. On motorboats, even on luxury motor yachts, we often see rudders not "in profile”. What does it mean? It means that the rudder surface does not satisfy the hydrodynamic characteristics that have to be taken into consideration for boat speed. If the rudder is not perfectly matched, this is going to cause vibrations, bigger rudders are needed, higher engine power... like a car that hasn't got a correct CX and therefore needs more horse power. Furthermore the habit of putting zinc on the blade is at least inappropriate.
When the engine is mounted singly (not in pairs) for example on lobster boats, displacement or planing boats the engine generates due to the propeller rotation the effect a deviating push in the rotation direction. The rudder has to correct the lateral push with a slight angle, reducing the speed. A way to even out single engine operation is by making a more rounded profile on the face of the rudder opposite to the propeller rotation. How big should be this curvature be and how should it be made?
It has to be in proportion to the rudder surface, the boat speed and be modified by simply also making use of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS resin and Microfiller Powder to adjust it from hull to hull in order to obtain the correct form which is going to completely meet our interests in improving our boat..

19) To fill on the visible parts...

Often it is necessary to fill on the visible parts.
The colour of natural Microfibres is off-white and added to C-Systems' 10 10 CFS it is suitable to fill white wood like ash, spruce, maple etc.
When the touch-up colour is different then proceed as follows:
Prepare by sanding a small quantity of clean sawdust of the same wood to be filled. Put into a plastic container from our kit or in a cardboard beaker about half full with natural Microfibres, a small quantity of sawdust, and mix well dry. When the powder shade is three times lighter than the wood to fill make a test preparing a small quantity of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS and mixing a little bit of the ”new additive”. The ingredients proportion is about 5 parts of natural Microfibres and 1 part of saw dust. Mix up well until it can be applied with a spatula and place it next to the wood to fill; if the shade is very similar you can proceed being sure that the shade will be, after sanding, perfectly in line with the wood colour. In order to obtain the filler shade the ratio is about 5 parts of natural Microfibres and 1 part of saw dust.

20) The sitting of a “sail of a boat or of a pilot-boat”...

The sitting of a “sail of a boat or of a pilot-boat” if in fibreglass or in wood can be ennobled or reconstructed applying above staves in teak with a thickness from 5mm to 8mm. In the first case rubbing down and gluing with C-systems 10 10 cfs with Addensante N.2; with the wood, instead, soaking the surface with C-systems 10 10 cfs and then applying Addensante N.2 or Natural Microfibres. Then the seam will be sealed with Nautilus Deck Seal, monocomponent, and the aesthetic and functional aspect will be exceptional. With C-systems 10 10 cfs it’s possible to make new decks or to reconstruct the old ones. It isn’t necessary to put screw caps as in the past. The nail or the screw will be put in the middle of the seam between the two fillets to let settle the new woods and making pressure on the staves in the middle of the seam. When after 24/48 hours the C-systems 10 10 cfs has been hauled we can caulk the seam. All the work will be without the unaesthetic screw caps of the deck.

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