For this type of boat, the most traditional construction, filling and caulking have to be carried out periodically.
The C-Systems' 10 10 CFS epoxy resin, if used properly, reduces this maintenance repetition and “extends” sailing.
We want to solve the problems related to gaps in solid wood planking, including the joints at the stem, stern and the relative screws and nails which fix the planking to the framework.
Let’s see why the timber shrank and the courses which were put in place by craftsmen and “kissed” so well, are now open. Moisture penetrates through the paint film, which might be very compact but still has micro-pores, through which there is a continuous absorption and release due to temperature variations. The penetrating moisture saturated the wood grain dissolving microscopic amounts of natural sugars, starch and lignin, which form the structure of wood. This continuous flow removes from the wood, together with other important substances, also part of its volume and the board tends to shrink and show its seam.
The same can be said about originally caulked boats, as caulking has to be remade after some years and it has to be ever thicker in order to fill the larger gap created between the planks. What’s described above is very brief, but it describes the wood’s behaviour because we must be convinced and sure about the work we do.
For the underwater hull and the remaining planking (topsides, deckhouse, etc.) you proceed in the following way:
A) Burning off or disk sanding, in order to strip the wood right down or to leave it with only very few traces of old paint.
B) “Open” the seams between the planking courses and the plank ends , including those on the stem and on the stern and transom.
C) Insert 40 to 80 grade glass-paper folded in two between the planking to clean them thoroughly.
D) If necessary “strengthen” where the boards don’t “sound” properly, with screws; if possible put some drops of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS in between the parts which are going to “touch” so that the board has a larger contact surface.
E) Apply a thick coat of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS on the seam, insert the caulking cotton (or hemp) into the seam and carry out a good caulking, doubling or tripling in the largest points the wadding thickness or reducing it (by breaking it) in the narrowest points. Work in such way that the caulking remains some millimetres below the board surface.
Over the caulking apply two or three coats of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS making sure that the caulking cotton is soaked and completely impregnated with resin.
The caulking cotton is a cotton “twine/string” available in different diameters. We supply 3 and 6 mm because in the case a higher diameter is needed its possible to double or triple it to make it suitable to use. In comparison to oakum caulking it does not contain any heavy oil or bitumen. It is put into the seam still fresh with C-Systems' 10 10 CFS resin, brush C-Systems' 10 10 CFS several times onto the caulking made, and the caulking cotton as it absorbs a large quantity of resin increases its volume. In this way it closes all access ways to the caulking creating a very good and long lasting joint between the boards. Be sure that the caulking cotton is “trapped” at least a couple of millimetres under the board surface e then covered again with structural filler made with C-Systems' 10 10 CFS added to natural micro-fibres. The following day, on sanding the treated surface, we will admire a perfectly continuous board structure and a new integrity of the planking.
It is important that the resin completely soaks the caulking cotton because the latter is going to increase in volume, so closing the gaps even more, remaining perfectly and integrally attached to the board forming an exceptional joint. Instead of using caulking cotton you can take up the play between the planking by using strips of wood after having thoroughly cleaned the seams.
Prepare some strips with slightly truncated conical shape which we want to insert in the spaces between the planking boards, without being too worried whether we will need more than one piece to cover each seam its full length.
Apply C-Systems' 10 10 CFS into the seam and onto the strip which will be used to close the seam.
In the seam again put some C-Systems' 10 10 CFS mixed with natural micro- fibres (until it is as thick as a jam) and insert the prepared wooden strip pushing it lightly in the opening so that it mates the boards together with the filler made with natural micro-fibres. Proceed this way for all seams. Regarding the rounded parts (stem, etc.) these areas are made using caulking cotton (oakum contains tar and cannot absorb paints or resins) and then you carry on as indicated for the caulking.
Once the caulking and strip insertion are finished you will be able to appreciate the perfect structural sturdiness given back to the boat, and we go on with the work
F) Perfectly sand and polish the entire surface.
G) You have to prepare a certain quantity of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS (A + B) resin by using batching pumps (your work will be faster and safer) and alternatively pumping in this manner; pumping A then B, then pumping A and then B again and so on; in this way the resin and the respective catalyst is distributed more uniformly (Note in 1,5 kg packs micro pumps have to pump twice A and then once B and so on in order to maintain the correct C-Systems' 10 10 CFS mixing ratio).
Mix well and pour the resin into the plastic bowl to increase the mixture’s life and to work better with the roller or with the brush.
“Soak” all screw and nail heads with the resin.
Apply the resin on the hull and work for about 20 minutes, than start from the beginning again taking care to go over again the areas where the wood strongly absorbed the mixture and needs more again.
Go on from where you stopped and proceed like before, redoing from time to time when you see that the surface is becoming matt. Repeat the operation several times in order to deeply impregnate the wood fibre and make sure that the latter absorbs up to saturation point (up to four or five times depending on the wood quality and condition).
Let it dry for one day and you will notice how everything is perfectly consolidated. The wood, even where it was stressed, absorbed a certain amount of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS transported along the finest fibres thanks to its low viscosity and bonding in an excellent way, saturating and strengthening the entire structure, in this way we continue the work.
H) Wet sand lightly, or after having sponged the entire surface to flatten down the wood fibres, then apply a second coat (A+B) of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS. Epoxy resins have always to be wet sanded, or after sponging down the surface (like when washing our car windscreen).
I) Apply onto the remaining imperfections, heads, etc., a coat of filler made up of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS and Microfiller Powder, or natural micro-fibres or thickening agent nos. 2 .
L) Sand and level off. Apply C-Epoxy LIGHT Filler on large imperfections.
In order to properly smooth and level the entire surface, apply a C-Epoxy LIGHT Filler coat with a toothed spatula to obtain an uniform layer. The following day, or when it is just dry, sand with 40 grain paper over a wooden sanding block and apply, after cleaning and dusting the surface off well, another C-Epoxy LIGHT Filler coat with a smooth spatula which fills and levels completely the previous layer.
A hull surface prepared and rubbed down this way will give higher speeds and achieve a high level aesthetic finish in the topsides.
M) Apply another 2 or 3 full coats of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS on the hull followed by 2 coats of anti-fouling and... good sailing.
It is advisable to add A 20 to these final coats.
N) Protect the sides and the deckhouse with at least two coats of NAUTILUS Polyurethane Enamel.
It is advisable to apply at least one or two primer coats before anti-fouling NAUTILUS Epoxy Primer due (white or blue colour) because it is not only characterised by adhering to epoxy, it also creates a solid union with the latter and has much higher resistance than classical coatings. Furthermore a self-smoothing anti-fouling like Nautilus S.P. doesn’t show resin transparency. For the sides and the cabin it is indispensable to apply NAUTILUS Epoxy Primer due otherwise the paint will have problems to cover the work made. From the last C-Systems' 10 10 CFS, NAUTILUS Epoxy Primer due or NAUTILUS Polyurethane Enamel (white or blue two-component enamel) application wait at least for 7 days before putting the boat into water for the first time.

1) Proceed as under the letter G.
2) Sand lightly to flatten the wood fibres and apply the second coat (A+B) ofC-Systems' 10 10 CFS. Epoxy resins are always to be wet sanded, or after sponging washing the surface.
3) Apply C-Systems' 10 10 CFS with thickener agent nos. 2 in the plywood joint. Apply a filler coat prepared with C-Systems' 10 10 CFS and Microfiller Powder on screw and nail heads, or an premixed filler (like our C-Epoxy LIGHT Filler). These holes absorb a higher amount of resin because the wood is particularly deteriorated at these points, and it is possible to note how the resin has already protected well
4) Sand then apply another coat of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS.
5) In order to properly smooth and level the entire hull, apply a layer of C-Epoxy LIGHT Filler with the toothed spatula creating a uniform layer. The following day, or when just dry, sand with 40 grain paper over a wooden sanding block and apply, after properly cleaning and dusting the surface, another coat of C-Epoxy LIGHT Filler with the smooth spatula which completely fills and levels the previous layer.
Hulls so prepared and sanded will give higher speeds and good fuel savings in the case of motor boats.
6) Apply another 2 or 3 full coats of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS followed by 2 coats of anti-fouling .... and good sailing.
It is advisable to add A 20 to the last two or three coats.
A 20 is a very fine black powder, which disperses easily in C-Systems' 10 10 CFS once mixed up. It makes the resin more thixotropic (thicker) and more suitable to hold vertically. By applying it abundantly you can obtain up to 200 micron thickness per coat. The colour black also helps the film to dry out perfectly because by attracting heat it dries fast, so the following coat can be applied in a very short time even if the mixture still has the same pot-life (using time after mixing). It is advisable to apply thinner coats of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS (as for all paint products) rather than particularly thick coats. A thin coat smoothes the surface and does not require any sanding, it can take the next coat after about 3-4 hours with temperatures about 16 to18 degrees and working it is a pleasure. It is important to underline again that coats of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS can be applied “wet on wet”, that is to say as soon as the resin starts taking and being sticky it can take the following coat.
The number of coats depends on the layer thickness, but it is important that the final quantity of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS applied is equal to 600-700 g. per square metre when finished, that means about 6-7 litres to every 10 square metres of surface.
When more than 36 to 48 hours go by between two coats it is best to wet sand it. If after drying the surface is a little greasy (it is a C-Systems' 10 10 CFS resin reaction when there is a very high relative humidity or a temperature drop), wash the surface with fresh water or even better with a sponge type SCOTCH BRITE 3M using its rough side and dry thoroughly before starting the next application. The first anti-fouling coat can be applied directly 6 to 8 hours after the coat of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS so that it can adhere perfectly, but one to two intermediate Nautilus Epoxy Primer due coats before the anti-fouling, ease the work and the final result.

Wood was the first material used to move on water, the first to be used by mankind to plough the seas; still today it is a perfect technical engineering material with surprising and hidden qualities, if these are properly interpreted and exploited with modern chemical products offered on today’s market, it gives incomparable results to resolve the problems related to lightness, resistance and maintenance, requested today.
Wood is self-buoyant and doesn’t rust (so an old saying) and its fascination and culture are deeply rooted in us.
Over time, alongside the traditional use of solid wood we now have marineply for bulkheads, for undersides of decks, cabins, deckhouses etc. and also for building motorboats and motor yachts; later came crossed planking, cold bonding and other integrated techniques were introduced.
Boats were built using the techniques and materials available at the time, but the materials once considered to be “perfect” can today be easily improved.
Today “classical” wooden boats can take advantage of new and tested technologies making use of epoxy resins and allowing such reliable, providing lasting project solutions which were not conceivable until only a few decades ago.
Epoxy resins are employed in the new construction phase and prove to be out-standing to repair, restructure, transform and to carry out small to large interventions. Our practical experience lets us state that in many cases good maintenance work (not being so costly) allowed the boat to regain a new life and with greater reliability than when it first went to sea.
After years of use the boat owner’s satisfaction is the best advertisement for our products. What maintenance work has to be carried out on wooden boats?.

It is necessary that the boat is brought on land and, if a shed is not available, at least a protection is needed with boards and plastic sheets forming a hut at least one metre longer and wider on each side, to protect it from rain and other negative climatic conditions.
Though in the cold period from November until mid March also the sides need to be completely protected. In this period it is also important that when working resin is warmed (using a rapid catalyst is also to be preferred) and the surface to treat is also warmed with a hot air stove. Being able to use infrared quartz lamps sort out this problem completely. When working in a “closed” environment ensure there is good air circulation. It if very important that the boat is emptied of any movable elements; the bilge, the caboose and all storage areas are to be perfectly cleaned, washed and degreased with our Boat Life Bilge Cleaner and dried perfectly.

Screws and nails, being “trapped” deep in the wood, show a small cavity mainly covered with filler..
When they are dried out small moisture halos are to be noticed next to screws, nails and cracks along the board joints.
The weather, sea water, stress caused by sailing and all related factors softened the filler and moisture entered the structure. In order to remove the paint from the topsides and the anti-fouling from the bottom, the most suitable means are: burning off, using sanding discs, or sand blasting.
From our experience we consider burning off as the most suitable because it is fast and the equipment is cheap when carried out by yourself; further the “holy fire” is already in itself an anti-bacteria and anti-parasite process for the wood, it also dries it slightly and underlines some hidden defects.
It is obvious that combining burning with sanding will give the best result. Removing all fillings and opening the seams is also indispensable.
Try to turn some old screws and if you succeed in moving it slightly it means that the “neck” is still intact; if otherwise and it springs up it is necessary to re-secure the bottom with alternating screws.
These jobs can be amply seen in our video tapes VHS or CD which you can request from us or from your dealer. The video tape VHS nos. 1 is about 60 minutes long and shows the use of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS with additives, surface preparation, construction of a deck in teak, glass cloth application and at the end the process to prevent osmosis. The video tape VHS nos 2 shows exclusively the integration of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS epoxy resin on a traditional boat with longitudinal planking, applying new reinforcing external planking (re-planking), and the complete restoration, varnishing and painting. This video tape lasts about 90 minutes.

The boards are butted at the stem, forming the junction, the point of force with the opposite side. Also in this case it is important to thoroughly clean out any caulking and filling as well to control the wood’s integrity. Furthermore the boards butted to the stem post and on the stern board have thicker nailing, creating small slits which often reduces the board head resistance. If we observe our boat now we can only be satisfied with our work and appreciate that our loving effort is rewarding us greatly. We are regaining this wooden structure which we had forgotten or maybe never seen, and we can fully appreciate the work and the cleverness of the boat-builder.

When applied properly and at the right thickness C-Systems' 10 10 CFS creates a layer which is impermeable by moisture because it builds a water proof film, therefore the moisture absorption and release process doesn’t take place. Moisture, water and so on remain where they are, that is to say in the sea for the underwater hull and in the air for the topsides and superstructure.
Damp wood has breaking strength noticeably inferior to that with low moisture content. This means that a high moisture content in our boat structure causes as a consequence a lesser fatigue resistance. Excessive moisture also causes rotting, fungus and premature decay of the fibre structure
Our wooden hull, when it remains within the moisture limits requested by the different Registers, will be lighter and more resistant eliminating all problems which derive from moisture presence.
Then what happens to the old saying according to which wood must “breath”, that it is not possible to “block, close” it because wood is a living essence which moves continuously?
In past decades many people plasticized their boats in order to sort out their infiltration problems, but after a short time they were literally in troubled waters. Let’s take a practical example that we see every day: marineply.
If we think about a multi-layered or armour-plated plywood, also highly resistant (this latter type is highly suitable for hull bottoms and sides) we realize that the number of wood layers is really high (11, 13, 15, etc.) and core sheet, the centre one, is spread on both sides with resorcinol glue (similar to C-Systems' Red Glue CASCOPHEN, ours is used cold while for industrial application the hot type is used), which receives in its turn another two layers of wood, one on each side, which are also spread with glue and then again another two layers .... and so on, up to the thickness required. Now do you think that the centre wood layer (the so called core layer, but also the others) is able to or can breath? This plywood used to restructure boats more than 20 years ago still appears in perfect shape and still has a very bright future with extremely high performances.
R.I.NA., LLOYD’S as well as all other Registers recommend that the “heads” (that is to say its perimeter sides) of plywood have to be “blocked” with solid wood bonded with marine glue, in order to avoid any water absorption (and therefore also to breath). Besides, if you take plywood sheet in the standard measures of about m 1,50 x 2,10 and you immerge it for a long time in water, when it is taken out to dry again you will notice that the parts which absorbed water and suffered are the perimeter edges for some centimetres and the two external faces (the former due to capillary action and the others through contact), but the internal layers will be perfectly dry because the resorcinol resin “drunk” by the wood fully saturated the surface and the already full capillaries are physically not able to “drink” any more.
And then for what reason does “plastification” cause wood chalking?
Polyester resin (generally used as last remedy) has a degree of permeability, and temperature variations transform the moisture absorbed and contained in the wood before “plasticization” into vapour (it is similar to a pressure cooker where few calories produce large effects). Vapour diffused increases its volume but is doesn’t escape so easily, so it remains trapped in the structure, cooking the wood, making it towlike, and without the bearing capacity which interests us. Furthermore, during plasticization the hull was certainly not as dry as required, therefore, dries further as its not in direct contact with the water any more... wood shrinks, looses volume, and plastic remains looking in places as if it would fall off.
It is obvious that we have to make sure that our hull reaches on average a uniform moisture content of not more than 12-15%, (better is 8 - 12%) because in this case we will be certain that it will have higher resistance and reliability and C-Systems' 10 10 CFS will give it even more strength. On the other hand it is indispensable that all boats irrespective of their construction material are kept ventilated, but even more so for wooden boats, and that air does not stagnate inside the cabins, that these are aired and, if covered with sheets, make sure that the topsides are aired through the bow and stern, in order to avoid any consequences originated by stagnant air that during the day, with a little bit of sunshine, reaches sauna temperatures.

A job, which is finding ever more consensus and also exceptionally strengthens the hull, is re-covering with thin plates of solid wood or plywood, both sides and bottom, making a “cross” with the new covering. This intervention (re-planking) can be carried out on boats with rounded as well as angular hulls and it is mainly targeted at longitudinal or cross planking boats in order to give to the boat structure more reliability and to guarantee reduced maintenance. Recently a renowned magazine in the sector presented a report about an extra planking installed on a motor boat above 20 metres, with more than 30 working years, which during this important maintenance also had the engines changed for new ones with higher performances. These interventions are aimed not only to update the construction techniques which were already of high level but also to apply C-Systems' 10 10 CFS epoxy resin where before everything was in the hands of nails and screws.
Recently we have encountered boats “restructured” more than ten years ago; they looked as if they had been constructed yesterday. Before starting it is important that the hull is well supported on a suitable mount, holding its shape, without incorrect sagging or twisting, and that it undergoes a good drying out, after removing old paint.
Caulking with cotton or thin wooden strips will be carried out according to the precautions described above. All surfaces will also be smoothed evenly so that the planking is perfectly levelled.
A new lamination (re-planking) can be carried out using solid wood as well as plywood. Plywood, or solid wood, goes from 3 mm thickness for boats from 4 to 6 metres, to 5 mm thickness for boats up to 10 m and so on (3 mm every 4 - 6 metres). Plywood is easy to be used and installed because a small saw is enough to obtain strips in the right measure. Furthermore the various internal layers give, in comparison to heartwood, a higher dimensional stability.
You start from the boat centre with inclined strips from 35 to 45° so that the external vein is going to form the best X cross with the planking vein underneath optimising also its bending facility. The strip is fixed with the stapler and another 4 to 5 strips are prepared, numbered and shaped slightly so that their edges are adherent, marking reference points. Then you start the installation by well impregnating the hull and the strips with C-Systems' 10 10 CFS. Afterwards a certain quantity of C-Systems' 10 10 CFS with Microfiller Powder is prepared and applied on the hull with a toothed spatula. Then the strip is laid up and stapled to keep it perfectly in position, then you go on with the other strips. Possible small spaces between the plates are filled with Microfiller Powder. It is also possible to change the strips “weaving” next to the poop and bow or wherever necessary. It is important that the vein of the new support, which we are placing, is always going to form an X with the boat wood vein.
Once the cover is finished we remove all clips, than everything is sanded with paper 40 - 60. The new planking is protected with a complete C-Systems' 10 10 CFS treatment. On the keel it is advisable to make a fillet with Microfiller Powder with a proper joint.
Another usage practiced for a long time, is the construction technique for new craft covering the entire hull with C-Systems' 10 10 CFS and glass cloth (mainly for the longitudinal solid wood construction), a certain part or the board joining points, of the corners (mainly for plywood boats) and all parts with higher wear, like stem posts, transom frame, stern boards, keels, etc. It is important to note that the glass cloth and epoxy resin cover has to respect the same fundamental laws:
1st wood has to be perfectly dry (that is to say with the foreseen moisture content) as required by Naval Registers.
2nd the parts to be covered in glass cloth have to be mechanically sound, well assembled, properly dimensioned and without hard edges, because the cloth would loose part of its strength at those that points.
When applying the cloth on outer edges it is necessary to round these with a diameter of at least 2 cm. When the cloth is applied to an inside radius with C-Systems' 10 10 CFS and Microfiller Powder then to at least a 5 cm diameter. Contact with a larger diameter will give the highest resistance to the applied cloth. Ensure that this cloth is “dressed” for epoxy resin otherwise the bond will not be so good. Usually the cloth used is bi-directional and in order to obtain better results it should be “lattice mounted” - obliquely, that is to say in order to form an X with the wood grain direction.
Using instead a bi-axial cloth ± 45° solves this problem and has a resistance and a “strength” superior to a bi-directional cloth with the same weight and glass quality because it always “crosses” timbers in the right way, but also due to the way its weave pattern. This cloth is also interesting when boat building with, lets say 15 mm planks are foreseen, we use 8 - 9 mm and add a glass reinforcement to ensure the 15 mm resistance, with the advantage of having 30% less in total weight. For all works where glass cloth is foreseen, or chosen, cleaning the parts, the drying, the impregnation and filling with C-Systems' 10 10 CFS and its additives is determining.
The following glass cloth application with C-Systems' 10 10 CFS must give consistency, reliability and beauty to the boat. It never has to be a work which can be classified as plastification.
On some regatta boats, built over 30 years ago, these solutions were chosen for their lightness, stoutness and...... long-term reliability. If you see them during your trips or at a regatta you will be able to admire them because they still look new and still have a bright future.
The use and application of this glass cloth is documented in our VHS video tapes. Also available is a CD with photographs about work on solid wood boats. Sent free of charge when placing the order for the VHS video tapes.

It’s available by our sellers or directly by us, a videotape VHS of about 60 minutes, with advice to use the epoxy resin and to work wooden boats like hull, deck, broadsides, planking etc..
The same videotape speaks about osmosis, preparation of the surface, application of C-systems 10 10 cfs, fillers and antifouling. It’s also available a completely working with C-systems 10 10 cfs for caulking, replanking of the hull and many examples of upkeep. This videotape lasts about 90 minutes.

(up)